1/11/13 CHINATOWN GUIDE
Many
New Yorkers write off Chinatown. They either deem it a tourist trap
filled with cheap, tacky tchotchkes or an insular ethnic community
impenetrable to those unfamiliar with Chinese culture. There are,
however, several destinations that fall into neither category and offer
an exciting alternative to the city’s ubiquitous commercial
establishments.
Fay Da Bakery-
Considering the popularity of some Asian confections, it’s incredible
that Chinese pastries have not caught on as more of a trend. Mochi and
bubble tea both have rave followings, but the Chinese bakeries scattered
throughout the city do not receive the same kind of attention. Chinese
pastries differ significantly from their Western alternatives; they are
not traditionally as sugary, and often use glutinous rice flour (mochi)
or crispy noodles as a base rather than dough. Fay Da is one of the more
successful Chinese bakeries in the city, with several locations in both
Manhattan and Queens. The ambiance at Fay Da is not as trendy as
Pinkberry, with their artsy light fixtures and pebble floor, but what
they lack in interior design, they make up for with the beauty of their
fare. Fay Da offers a variety of classic Chinese sweets, including
mooncakes, rice balls, and lotus puff pastry, and each piece is
exquisitely crafted. The taro cake was especially eye-catching, a
perfect sphere with a marbled lavender surface, and the golden glaze of
the sweet bun is certainly seductive. At under $2 per item, you cannot
go wrong. 191 Centre St.
Pearl River Mart-
Pearl River has been a New York establishment for 40 years and in this
time has gathered a following with everyone from hipsters to famous
fashion editors. Entering the store, you are confronted with racks of
silk tops and slippers, and as you travel further in you can find
everything from ceramics, to Chinese foodstuffs, silk flowers, and more
American trends, like tote bags and pencil cases made from recycled
materials. Toward the back of the store is a tea balcony with a entire
wall filled with jars, each containing a different flavor of tea leaf.
From up here, you can look out at the giant dragon garlands strung
across the ceiling and the shoppers below. Granted, some of the
merchandise at Pearl River is likely offered at cheaper, more
conventional Chinatown shops, but in terms of variety and style of
presentation, Pearl River cannot be beat. 477 Broadway
Museum of Chinese in America-
Compared to the city’s other cultural museums, MOCA is relatively
unknown, only having been in place for 3 years. Yet, it is certainly
worth a visit, offering a fascinating history in a beautiful space. MOCA
doesn’t have the marble majesty of the Met, it’s only 14,000 sq. ft.,
but the design is impeccable, executed by famed architect Maya Lin in
the loose imitation of a traditional Chinese house. The permanent
exhibition tells the story of Chinese-Americans from the 1850s to the
present, through the use of monitors, sound pieces, video, posters, and
artifacts. Especially notable were the spoken stories played in each of
the galleries, serving to engage you on multiple sensory levels. Through
February 24th, there are two connected special exhibitions:
“Alt.Comics: Asian-American Arists Reinvent the Comic Book” describes
Asian-Americans work in graphic novels, and“Marvels & Monsters:
Unmasking Asian Images in U.S. Comics, 1942-1986,” which offers a
fascinating dissection and categorization of the stereotypes Asian
people fell into within America’s revered superhero comics. 215 Centre St., Student admission: $5, free admission on Thursdays
Image courtesy of nytimes.com
Apotheke-
The underground, Chinatown speakeasy is one of the city’s whispered
legends. Ironically, one, far more famous than the others, has accrued
quite a public following. With its nondescript façade for the “Gold
Flower Restaurant” and discreet location, Apothoke routinely serves to
fulfill all the Bond fantasies harbored by Manhattanites. It would
probably already be the next “hip joint” tourists always seem to be
scouting out if not for the prohibitive prices ($15-18 cocktails) and
intense bouncers. The space is patterned after a nineteenth-century
apothecary, filled with antique medicine bottles and eerie glass orbs.
Prescriptions (or drinks) include everything from the Pigmy Gimlet with
vodka, kiwi, and eucalyptus tincture to Hecho de Mexico with tequila,
tamarind, and an Haberno pepper. Additionally, Apotheke is a “farm to
bar” establishment, all their ingredients being local and organic. A
little something to moralize a $60 tab and a night of revelry. 9 Doyers St., near Bowery
by Cleo Levin
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